A New Q, an Oris, and Some Compasses Too

A New Q, an Oris, and Some Compasses Too

A New Q, an Oris, and Some Compasses Too

Words by Windup Watch Shop

It’s 2021, the holidays are behind us, so it’s time to get back to the business of adding cool watches and gear to the Windup Watch Shop. To kick the year off, we’ve got a few cool strap compasses to show you, as well as a couple of awesome watches. Let’s get to it.

Strap Compasses

Strap compasses are handy tools for adventures. Slide one on your strap towards the inside of your wrist before you head out, and you have a super useful “complication” available at just the tilt of your wrist. Lightweight, compact, and glow in the dark, you might not take it off when you get home. 

Today, we’re adding three styles by Sun Company, a Colorado-based outdoors brand with 45 years of experience. The simplest version is compact and all black for a sleek look. Made out of durable ABS plastic, it will be an adventure companion for years to come. The next version adds a white rotating bezel into the mix, adding a 360 degree index. Lastly, is a model featuring a light-weight aluminum chassis. This one has a bit more presence that looks great with polished watches. Check them all out here

Todd Snyder x Q Timex

The Q Timex has quickly risen to the ranks of “most fun watch under $200” – if such a list exists – and today we’re excited to add a version made in collaboration with menswear designer Todd Snyder. Launched in 2020, this version goes a different route from the earlier models, eschewing color for a more aggressive and technical look. The dial is black with red cross-hairs, applied markers at cardinal positions and lume at every hour. The bezel has been rendered in matte metal with black markings in a dive layout for a classic sporty style. Lastly, the bracelet has been swapped for one with large links in brushed steel, echoing the faceted design of the Q’s wonderful, 38mm barrel case. 

Oris Carl Brashear Cal. 401 Limited Edition

Oris is starting 2021 off with a bang in the form of their highly sought after Carl Brashear Limited Edition. A series of solid bronze 40mm Diver Sixty-Fives, the first and second version are long gone and held tight by collectors. For the third iteration, they’ve added the newest version or their newest caliber (there is a whole lot of new, in case you didn’t notice), the 401 which features a 5-day power reserve, highly anti-magnetic components, 10-year warranty, small seconds at six, and no date. The result is a striking dive watch with a distinctly naval look. Limited to just 2,000 pieces, this is certainly a collector’s grade Oris. 

Power at a Premium: 6 Watches Under $3,500 with Great Power Reserves

Power at a Premium: 6 Watches Under $3,500 with Great Power Reserves

Of the various ongoing trends in the watch world, ever-improving power reserves in mechanical timepieces are among the most practical. With collectors often owning a variety of pieces they like to change in and out on a daily basis, owning a mechanical timepiece that’s still running after it’s been put down for a few days is a luxury that many appreciate.

For a long time, exceptional power reserves were frequently reserved only for watches within the mid to high range of manufacturing and pricing, but in the past few years especially, that is beginning to change. There are now plenty of watches in the sub-$3,500 price category available with three-day or better reserves. We put together a list of six of these pieces, which includes offerings from Baume & Mercier, Christopher Ward, Certina, Hamilton, Tissot, and Oris.

Certina DS-1 ($650+)

Certina is a brand best known by most for its popular dive watch, the Certina DS PH200M, which we recently went hands-on with last month (and which you can read more about here). In addition to that popular diver, however, the brand also has some hidden gems in its catalogue, one being the 80-hour power-reserve-equipped Certina DS-1.

The DS-1 is available in a number of different colorways, in all-steel or two-tone cases, as well as silver, black, gray, and blue-accented dials. All of them share the same movement: the 3-day+ Powermatic 80. The automatic mechanism is derived from a base ETA 2824-2, which by slowing down its frequency to 21,600 vph from the standard 28,800 provides the movement an almost doubled reserve, at 80 hours.

The brand currently prices the watch at about $650; depending on the dial color it can frequently be found via an authorized dealer for a couple hundred less. Certina.

Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium ($775+)

Certina’s Swatch Group sister brand, Tissot, uses its own application of the Powermatic 80 movement in the Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium, the first in Tissot’s extensive collection to use that movement.

It was actually through the initial news of this Tissot watch that we learned the Powermatic 80 caliber not only has a reduced frequency, but also makes use of various silicon parts, including for its spring barrel which, according to the brand, results in more efficient operation without a major sacrifice to the ultimate timekeeping ability of the watch.

Like the DS-1, the Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium is available in an array of dial colors and case materials, though it is the steel, blue-dial model and two-tone crème-dial edition that seem to most frequently catch the eyes of collectors. Pricing begins at $775 for steel models on leather straps, and rises up to $1,495 for two-tone examples on metal bracelets.

You can find this watch and a number of other more recent releases containing the Powermatic 80 in Tissot’s online store here. Tissot.

Hamilton Jazzmaster Power Reserve Auto ($1,245+)

The final Swatch Group watch we have on our list is the Hamilton Jazzmaster Power Reserve Auto, which like the previous two watches also features a 3-day+ power reserve (aka 80 hours), though in this instance accomplished via the Hamilton Caliber H-13.

Like the previous two models, the Jazzmaster is a relatively classical-looking timepiece, though with some additional features accounting for its higher price tag. Among these, we find a number of new dial colors including sunray silver, black, crème, and blue, all with a power-reserve indicator on the dial in addition to the date window.

While not confirmed by information from the brands, it has been speculated the H-13 automatic movement inside the Jazzmaster is a Hamilton-modified Powermatic 80 (itself, as mentioned, derived from the ETA 2824-2), especially because Hamilton also falls under the Swatch Group umbrella. Nonetheless, with classic looks, an 80-hour reserve, and a price point just topping $1,000, the Hamilton watch can surely draw attention to itself in its own right.

The Jazzmaster Power Reserve Auto is offered directly through the Hamilton website here, with prices starting at $1,245 for a steel model on a leather strap, and only going up slightly to $1,495 when the watch is placed on a five-link metal bracelet instead. Hamilton.

Christopher Ward C65 Trident Diver SH21 Limited Edition ($2,170)

British watchmaker Christopher Ward might not be the brand you think of first when it comes to timepieces with great power reserves, but the brand’s in-house Caliber SH21 movement with its 120-hour power reserve and COSC-specification timekeeping ability is nothing to scoff at.

The caliber comes standard in a handful of Christopher Ward’s watches since its initial release in 2014, including the racing-inspired C1 Morgan 3 Wheeler Chronometer ($2,050) and C1 Morgan Aero 8 Chronometer ($2,685), as well as the Bauhaus-style C1 Grand Malvern Small Seconds ($1,540).

Our choice for this list is the C65 Trident Diver SH21 Limited Edition, which is a luxurious take on the brand’s signature C65 Trident Diver design, and one highly limited to only 150 pieces. Equipped with a five-day power reserve, chronometer certification, 150-meter water resistance, and a solid vintage-inspired design, all in a 41-mm steel case and a blue dial — there is a lot to like about the model.

While currently stock is very limited as a result of its limited production run, some models are still available directly through CW, here, priced at $2,170. Christopher Ward.

Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic ($2,990+)

The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic was much discussed upon its release, and for good reason. With a COSC chronometer certification, a five-day power reserve, magnetic protection, extended service intervals, and a very classical design, the watch has had a lot to offer since its initial introduction in 2018 and subsequent expansion in 2019.

Pricing for the standard Clifton Baumatic — that is, a time-and-date model — begins at $2,990 for either a dégradé blue, dégradé grey, or silver dial on a leather strap, and climbing slightly to $3,190 if you prefer it on a five-link metal bracelet. Depending on the case material and additional complications, prices on Baumatic models range up to $12,200. Baume & Mercier offers a number of models for purchase now directly though its online store, which you can find here.

Want to learn more about the Clifton Baumatic? We had one in for a watch test last spring; you can read the results here. Baume & Mercier.

Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 ($3,500)

If the previous models each generated discussion upon their releases, then Oris’ unveiling of its Calibre 400 movement — and shortly thereafter the new Aquis Date models that contained it — sparked serious conversation throughout the watch community.

Not only was Calibre 400 the first self-winding in-house movement produced by Oris, but the movement, and thus the new watch that contains it, come equipped with a five-day power reserve, serious antimagnetic properties, a 10-year warranty, and an astonishing 10-year service suggestion. All of this came together with the already widely praised design of the Aquis Date and its 300-meter water resistance, culminating in a high-value proposition that is likely to find its way into the collections of collectors young and old.

The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 costs $3,300 for the 43.5-mm version on a rubber strap and $3,500 on a metal bracelet, though it is highly anticipated other sizes and models containing the movement will become available in 2021. The watch is available both directly through Oris, here, and via authorized dealers globally. Oris.

What do you think of our list, and would you want to add any of these watches to your collection? Are there any watches we’re missing that fit this category? Let us know in the comments below!

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Taylor Stitch Raffle, Carbon Tech Prizes, & 5711 Farewells

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Taylor Stitch Raffle, Carbon Tech Prizes, & 5711 Farewells

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear.

Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing our Managing Editor at [email protected]

This installment of “Watches, Stories, and Gear” is brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop.

Citizen Steps into Luxury Materials with Limited-Edition Super Titanium Satellite Wave GPS F950

Citizen Steps into Luxury Materials with Limited-Edition Super Titanium Satellite Wave GPS F950

Japanese watchmaker Citizen has been growing its catalog of luxury-focused timepieces of late, the most recent addition being the new Super Titanium Satellite Wave GPS F950, a new tech-heavy watch that combines titanium and rose gold. The new model is being released in commemoration of Citizen’s first titanium watch 50 years ago — which, according to the brand, was also the world’s first.

The new timepiece inherits the space-oriented design concept of the original Satellite Wave GPS F100, released in 2014, and of the Satellite Wave GPS F900, which followed it up in 2015, but now offers a large case in rose gold and Citizen’s own Super Titanium that sits prominently on the wrist at a 48-mm diameter. Super Titanium is specially enhanced with Duratect, Citizen’s proprietary surface hardening technology.

On the case’s right side are two pushers to operate the watch’s various complications, along with a stylized central crown, flanked by two small guards on its top and bottom. Surrounding the dial is a world-time bezel with the initials for 27 cities and 40 time zones, and the case, which is water-resistant to 100 meters, is integrated into a matching black titanium bracelet that reflects the watch’s geometrical, futuristic style.

Underneath the sapphire crystal lies a detailed, three-dimensional dial. On the outermost edge, a rose-gold-colored minute ring is punctuated at each hour with applied black indices. Within that border, we find displays for its various complications, including an alarm on/off indicator, GPS indicator, and date. Toward the center are three matte-black subdials displaying other functions — including a complication indicator at 3 o’clock. Two lume-tipped, skeletonized hands track the hours and minutes, while a gold-colored pointer counts the chronograph seconds.

All together, the watch’s various tech offerings include the following: a satellite GPS timekeeping system with the “world’s fastest timekeeping signal reception speed from GPS navigation satellites — as quick as 3 seconds;” world time in 27 cities (40 time zones); a 1/20-second chronograph measuring up to 24 hours; dual time zone;  alarm; day and date indicators; universal coordinated time (UTC) display; perpetual calendar; daylight savings time indicator; power-reserve indicator; and light level indicator. All of these features are derived from Citizen’s CC4025-82E Eco-Drive quartz movement.

The Citizen Super Titanium Satellite Wave GPS F950 will be limited to 500 pieces, marked at the luxury price point of $5,000. The new model is available now, directly through Citizen’s online store. Citizen plans to make it available through authorized dealers later this year.

Tudor Brings The Black Bay Bronze Bucherer Blue to the US

Tudor Brings The Black Bay Bronze Bucherer Blue to the US

Tudor is using their own MT5601 caliber here, which brings COSC certified accuracy and 70 hours of reserve to the Bronze. It also packs a silicone balance spring for a level of anti-magnetism. This movement has some years under its belt at this point and reliability hasn’t been an issue as of yet. It’s use helps justify the $4,150 price tag which, coupled with the trick case, feels reasonable here from a brand like Tudor. 

The Bronze Blue is offered on a blue woven jacquard strap with a beige stripe down its center. It does not thread freely between the case and spring bars, rather, the strap is fitted with slots for the spring bars. This keeps things secure, but it means you won’t be swapping out straps as easily as you may like. Still, the lugs are drilled so it’s not too big an issue. 

The Tudor Black Bay Bronze Blue is available now exclusively from Tourneau boutiques and from their webshop right here.