Review: Seiko SPB149

Review: Seiko SPB149

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Nomos Glashütte Celebrates 175 Years with Three Limited-Edition Watches

Nomos Glashütte Celebrates 175 Years with Three Limited-Edition Watches

Germany’s Nomos Glashütte traces its own origin back to 1990, but the tradition of fine Glashütte watchmaking that it carries on stretches back much farther — 175 years, in fact. The brand commemorates that anniversary with the launch of three limited-edition models of its classical Nomos Ludwig model, whose design elements are derived from historical pocketwatches. Each version is limited to 175 pieces and is regulated and tested by Nomos to chronometer-level precision.

The Roman numerals and blued leaf hands are hallmarks of the Ludwig model.

All three of the new models borrow traditional features reminiscent of early pocketwatch designs. Each watch has a polished, enamel-white dial with rounded, tempered-steel blue hands, shaped in the classic leaf form, and bordered by a railroad-style chemin de fer minute track. Circling the outer edge of each watch’s caseback is an engraving spelling out “Limited Edition Ludwig – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte” in dark-gray-colored lettering as well as the watch’s limited-edition number (out of 175).

The new Ludwig editions range from 35-mm to 39-mm to 41-mm in case diameter.

Powering the watches are the manually-wound Nomos Alpha caliber, which is used in the smallest model, the 35-mm-diameter Ref. 205.S2; the automatic caliber DUW 3001, housed inside the Ludwig neomatik 39-mm model, which boasts a power reserve up to 43 hours; and the automatic Caliber DUW 6101, which ticks inside the Ludwig neomatik 41 Datum, amassing a 42-hour power reserve and driving a date function in addition to the hours, minutes, and small seconds on all three references.

The steel cases are mounted on horween shell straps.

All the movements are visible through sapphire casebacks and include traditional Saxon details like a three-quarter mainplate, tempered blue screws, and ribbed polishing, along with Nomos’s own in-house-designed-and-built “swing system” escapement which it debuted in 2014. The watch and the movement are waterproof (splash-proof) up to 30 meters. The Alpha movement has 17 jewels while both self-winding calibers use 27 jewels.

The movements feature traditional Glashütte decorations.

Along with the features described above, the Ludwig Neomatik 41-mm-diameter model can be distinguished by another aesthetic touch, used for the first time: its square-shaped date window, located at 3 o’clock, displays the date using black-colored Roman numerals.

The neomatik 41 Datum is distinguished by its Roman-numeral date display.

All three models are subjected to chronometer regulations and will be available through selected Nomos retailers from July. The Ludwig 175 Years model (Ref. 205.S2) retails for $2,260, the Ludwig Neomatik (Ref. 250.S1) model is $3,800, and the Ludwig Neomatik Date model (Ref. 261.S1) is $4,200. All three models come mounted on a black horween genuine shell cordovan strap.

Announcing 3 New Colors of the American-made Model 2 Premium Strap – Now Available at the Windup Watch Shop

Announcing 3 New Colors of the American-made Model 2 Premium Strap – Now Available at the Windup Watch Shop

Announcing 3 New Colors of the American-made Model 2 Premium Strap – Now Available at the Windup Watch Shop

Words by Windup Watch Shop

Fall is just around the corner, so it’s time to start thinking about leather straps again (finally!). So today, we’re excited to announce three new hearty, rugged, autumn-ready straps to our Model 2 Premium collection. A quick primer on the Model 2 Premium for the unfamiliar – these are our house line of American-made straps, featuring the best quality leathers sourced from Chicago’s Horween tannery and Wickett & Craig of Pennsylvania. The leather is cut, painted, hand-sewn, and otherwise transformed into a high-quality watch strap in the heart of Manhattan’s Garment District.

The three new colors are Dark Navy, Marsh Green, and Yukon Brown. Each gorgeous in their own right, they are quite different from one another, and not your typical strap colors. We hand selected these three new leathers on a trip to Horween last year, and are very excited to finally make the straps available. All are available in 18, 20 and 22mm for $95, and you can head here to pick them (and the 12 other Model 2 Premium colors) up right now.

Dark Navy

Every watch collector should have a dark blue leather strap in their strap bag, and we think the new Dark Navy is the perfect choice for the job. Featuring Horween Latigo leather upper. A full-grain leather that is combination tanned (vegetable and chromexcel) it’s a high-end article from Horween that is soft and supple, with an appealing grain. The blue is deep, rich and consistent throughout the strap, and features a smooth surface. We’ve accented the blue with dark brown edge paint, black lining and silver hand-tied side knots. A great alternative to blacks and browns, blues go beautifully with white, gray, and salmon dials as well as faded, tropical colors.

Marsh Green

We’re very excited about this next one. Marsh Green is made using Horween Waxed Flesh Chromexcel leather. Basically, this is a suede that has had the nap waxed down to create a solid surface. Since it’s held down by wax, the nap can and will eventually come up with wear, creating a very rough and rugged finish. In other words, the more you wear this strap, the gnarlier it will become. But to start, it’s still quite unique. The color is a dark green with a strong brown undertone that will become more visible with wear. The surface texture is almost scaly, with a unique and interesting grain. Keeping with the dark, earthy colors, we paired Marsh with brown edge paint, black lining, brown side-knots and a Stout keeper. Put this one on your toughest tool watches. You won’t regret it.

Yukon Brown

Another unique leather, this one was a lucky find while going through Horween’s shelves. Made out of Horween Predator leather (yeah, that’s their house name for this one), it’s an oiled nubuck with a matte finish, pronounced leather grain, and exceptional color. This is another leather that is all about patina. It scratches and marks up easily, as well as darkens and shines up on areas of higher wear. What you end up with is a strap that tells a story and has an awesome vintage character after not-a-long time.

We called this one Yukon because it has a outdoorsy, rugged quality that we really fell for. A medium brown, it has a sandy, aged bronze tonality that is exceptional. We paired this one with brown edge paint, natural lining, and brown side knots. This one looks particularly excellent with darker, matte cases.

Vintage with a Twist: The Longines Avigation Watch Type A-7 1935

Vintage with a Twist: The Longines Avigation Watch Type A-7 1935

Like its predecessors, the first of which hit the market in 2012, the latest version of the Longines Avigation Watch Type A-7 1935 pays homage to the Saint-Imier brand’s aviation-watch past. The new timepiece takes inspiration from a model ordered by the U.S. Air Force in 1935 (we review a previously released model here) and engineered to meet rigorous specifications in terms of aesthetics, durability and precision.

Longines Avigation Type A7 1935 (Ref. L2.812.4.53.2)

The new variation of the Longines Avigation Watch Type A-71935 (Ref. L2.812.4.53.2) is faithful to its pre-war aviation origins. The model’s black dial, shifted 40 degrees to the right and protected by a nonreflective sapphire crystal, is a nod to the pilots who would wear the watch on the inside of their wrist over thick gloves to read the time quickly and easily without having to release the aircraft’s control yoke. The large, fluted crown, located at 12 o’clock, enabled the wearer to control the watch’s chronograph functions by simply pressing the single push-piece inserted in its center.

The dial is tilted 40 degrees to the right.

The round stainless steel case measures 41 mm in diameter and houses the column-wheel chronograph movement, Caliber L788.2, based on the reliable ETA Valgranges A08.L11. Exclusively developed for Longines, the self-winding mechanical movement features 27 jewels, a frequency of 28,800 vph, and 54 hours of power reserve. It’s shielded behind a solid, engraved caseback that helps ensure case’s water-resistance to 30 meters (3 bar).

The caseback has an aviation-themed engraved motif.

The Type A-7 1935 adopts the dial design of its ancestor: its matte black dial is bordered by a white-colored railway minutes track and adorned with large, honey-colored Arabic numerals for hours. The rhodium-plated, “cathedral”-shaped hour and minute hands are Super-LumiNova-coated. Both subdials, outlined by their own white, railway tracks, use a vintage-type font for their numerals similar to those used for the hours, and the small-seconds subdial at 6 o’clock incorporates a rectangle-shaped date display window, outlined in white. The counter at 12 o’clock tallies 30 elapsed minutes when the chronograph is switched on.

The numeral font, cathedral hands, and railroad minute track are nods to vintage models.

The Longines Avigation Watch Type A-71935 comes mounted on a brown leather alligator strap similar to the one used on the white-lacquered-dial version launched in 2016. It is available for purchase upon request through Longines’ site and retails for $5,050.

The watch features a chronograph operated by a monopusher in the large crown.
Manufacturer: Longines Watch Co. Francillon Ltd., Les Longines, 2610 Saint-Imier, Switzerland
Reference Number: L2.812.4.53.2
Model: Avigation Watch Type A-7 1935
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds and date display at 6 o’clock, chronograph with monopusher, 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock
Movement: Caliber L788.2 (ETA A08.L11 base), automatic, 27 jewels, 28,800 vph, 54-hour power-reserve, column wheel chronograph
Case: Stainless steel, sapphire crystal, single push-piece inserted into the crown, 30 meter water resistance
Bracelet and cla­­sp: Brown alligator strap with steel pin buckle
Dimensions: Diameter = 41 mm
Price: $5,050
Introducing the Sólás Starlight, an Affordable Watch with a Micro-Rotor Movement and Aventurine Dial

Introducing the Sólás Starlight, an Affordable Watch with a Micro-Rotor Movement and Aventurine Dial

The 5000A is thinner than a comparable full rotor movement from ETA or Sellita, which not only allows the Starlight to come in at just 9.7mm thick, but enables the use of an aventurine dial, which is thicker than a dial made from brass. Aventurine is a type of artisanal glass that is infused with copper, cobalt, and other metals to create a unique, shimmering finish that can sometimes resemble a starlit night sky. In person, an aventurine dial has an iridescent quality to it that is tough to capture in photographs. In watchmaking, aventurine dials, like those made of porcelain and enamel, are rare due to the high failure rate in their production and inherent fragility.

The Starlight project, launching soon on Kickstarter, is very much a labor of love for brand founder Diyu Wu, a watch lover based in Dublin, Ireland who simply set out to produce a watch with the features and aesthetics of the timepieces he most admires. That’s not unusual at all in the microbrand world, but Sólás stands apart because of the specific choices Diyu made to incorporate an unusual movement and niche dial material into his watch. The dial and movement combination here is certainly worthy of consideration and discussion, and the other elements of the Starlight’s design (faceted hands and applied hour markers, and a classic, compact size), seem likely to appeal to dress watch fans. At an expected retail price starting under $400, the Starlight could turn out to be a surprising and unique value, should the Kickstarter be fully funded. If nothing else, it’s a curiosity that ticks at least a few boxes that enthusiasts are typically forced to leave empty in their search for affordable, interesting new watches.

Wu’s Kickstarter is launching soon, and interested readers can sign up for updates here. Sólás