Highlights from the Virtual Windup Watch Fair

Highlights from the Virtual Windup Watch Fair

And just like that, the Virtual Windup Watch Fair has come to a close. Or has it? No, in fact, the Virtual Windup isn’t going anywhere. All of the Windup content, including the video interviews, product announcements, and podcasts, will live on Worn & Wound and the Windup Watch Fair website in perpetuity. As we head into the long Thanksgiving weekend, we thought we’d put together some of our favorite content from throughout the Fair for your leisurely consumption.

Before we get into our picks, we also wanted to remind you that our Virtual Windup Watch Fair Giveaway is still open and will remain open until 11:59:59 p.m. ET on Wednesday, November 25, 2020. We’ve got a whole bunch of great prizes up for grabs from Christopher Ward, Lorier, Brew, and others, and we’re picking 20 winners. You don’t want to miss it. You can enter the giveaway right here. Now, onto our Virtual Windup highlights.

Interview: Oris co-CEO, Rolf Studer, on the New Caliber 400 Movement

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Whether you’re new to the world of watches or you’ve been collecting for years, you’re undoubtedly very familiar with Oris. Over 100 years old and still independent, Oris has released a slew of very popular models in recent years, from the Divers Sixty-Five to the Big Crown Pointer Date collection. We recently had the pleasure of sitting down with Rolf Studer, Co-CEO of Oris Watches, to discuss their new Caliber 400 movement. We dig into its development, unique feature set, and why they chose the Aquis as the first watch to feature the new movement.

Interview: 55 Years of Seiko Dive Watches

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Seiko joined Windup for the first time in 2020, which was fitting as 2020 marks an important milestone for the brand – the 55th anniversary of Seiko’s first dive watch, the 62 Mas. We poke with Eric Hofmann – Senior Vice President of Business Development for Seiko US, to review their latest 2020 releases.

Unwind in Time: Purveyors of Unconventional, Historic Style

Unwind in Time Founder, Jarett Harkness, gives us a history lesson on Hamilton and other early battery-operated watches. Click here to read the full story.

Interview: Brew Watch Founder, Jonathan Ferrer, on his Latest Release, the Retromatic

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We spoke with Jonathan Farrer, Founder of Brew Watch Company, about his latest release, the Retromatic. We dig into Jonathan’s design process and why he chose to use two different mechanical movements in his new line, and what might be next for the brand.

Interview: Christopher Ward CEO, Mike France, on their 2020 Releases

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Christopher Ward is a brand that should be very familiar to Worn & Wound readers. Known for producing refined, Swiss-made watches at an affordable, direct-to-consumer price, Christopher Ward has been busy in 2020. We sat down with CEO Mike France to discuss what the brand has been up to and what they have in store for 2021.

Interview: Inside the Workshop of Bespoke Watch Projects with Founder, John Beck McConnico

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Bespoke Watch Projects is a California-based brand producing timepieces that are equal parts tool, artwork, and heirloom. We recently spoke with John Beck McConnico, Bespoke Watch Projects’ founder, to discuss how he’s developed such a unique aesthetic and to learn a bit more about his process.

The Worn & Wound Podcast 16: An Interview with V.J. Geronimo of Oris and Luis Clemente, President of the Roberto Clemente Foundation

Oris and the Roberto Clemente Foundation collaborated recently on a limited edition version of the brand’s Big Crown Pointer Date. In this interview, V.J. and Luis talk about how the project came about, some of the details that make the watch special, and Roberto Clemente’s legacy.

Interview: Hamilton CEO, Vivian Stauffer, on the New Khaki Aviation Converter Line

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We sat down with Vivian Staufer, CEO of Hamilton Watches to discuss their recently released Khaki Aviation Converter line. We also touched on what it’s been like for Vivian taking over as CEO of Hamilton in 2020, and learned more about the process behind developing Hamilton’s BelowZERO collection for Christopher Nolan’s film TENET.

Interview: Lorier Founders Lauren and Lorenzo Ortega on their New Hyperion GMT

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We’re excited to bring you an exclusive interview with Lorier Founders, Lauren and Lorenzo Ortega, to discuss their latest release, the Hyperion GMT. We talk about what went into the design of the Hyperion and why they chose to use a Swiss movement for the first time, among other topics.

Interview: Discussing Baltic’s new Aquascaph GMT with Founder Etienne Malec

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We had the opportunity to speak with Etienne Malec, Founder of Baltic watches, about their new line of GMT’s. Etienne tells a bit more about the inspiration behind the new GMTs and Baltic as a brand. We also dive into their earlier 2020 releases.

Interview: Discussing Farer’s New Pilot Watch with Founder Paul Sweetenham

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We spoke with the Founder of Farer, Paul Sweetenham, about their new line of pilot watches. Known for their bold use of color and commitment to truly unique design, their first foray into the world of pilot watches doesn’t disappoint.

The Worn & Wound Podcast 161: Q & A

In this episode, Blake Buettner is joined by James Helms, Blake Malin, and Zach Weiss to field some of the questions we’ve received from you, dear listener. We cover topics ranging from the versatility of watches, to the differences between microbrands and small independents.

Carl F. Bucherer Expands Manero Flyback Options with New, Sporty Bracelet and Dial Colors

Carl F. Bucherer Expands Manero Flyback Options with New, Sporty Bracelet and Dial Colors

Carl F. Bucherer’s Manero Flyback is a chronograph that consistently garners attention despite its relative underdog status among the likes of category icons like the Omega Speedmaster and Rolex Daytona. Recently, Carl F. Bucherer expanded the model’s fascinating and elegant design into sportier territory, pairing three colorways with its nine-link steel bracelet and effectively refreshing the collection heading into 2021.

The dial options include silvered, blue-gray, and black, and all the models are now available on the steel bracelet that was introduced last year on the well-received blue-sunburst-dial version of the watch (below). Each of the watches features the Manero Flyback’s well-known dial configuration, case silhouette, and movement, with the new colorways serving to highlight the versatility of its design.

The Manero Flyback has a 43-mm x 14.45-mm brushed and polished steel case with slightly curved lugs, traditional pump pushers, and a deeply fluted crown. In addition to the versions launched on the new nine-link bracelets, all these color options will also still be available standard on their previous leather straps, at a slightly reduced price.

Underneath the domed sapphire crystal lies the attractive sunburst dial of the watch. Each model features an outer tachymetric scale separated from the rest of the dial via a white ring on its inner edge. Within its border is a chronograph-style minute ring accentuated at most hours with applied pyramid-style hour markers and sporting a double marker at the 12 o’clock position. Breaking up the hour indices are two subdials at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions for the 20-minute counter and the running seconds, respectively, while at 6 o’clock is a beveled, outlined date window.

The innermost segment of the dial, inside a white circle sectored from the other rings, has the Carl F. Bucherer logo towards the top and the watch’s descriptors towards the bottom. The central, skeletonized, lance-shaped hour and minute hands match the style seen on the hands for both subdials, while a thin pointer with an arrow counterweight is used to count the chronograph seconds.

Carl F. Bucherer Manero Flyback - Gray Dial - Back

Inside the watch is Caliber CFB 1970, an automatic movement derived from the Valjoux 7750. The CFB version of the movement features a brand-added column wheel and flyback functionality when resetting the chronograph. The caliber is capable of a 42-hour power reserve, beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph, and contains 25 jewels. The movement is visible via a sapphire caseback which helps to provide the watch a 30-meter water resistance (picture above via a model we went hands-on with earlier this year).

All three new color options of the Manero Flyback are available now, via Carl F. Bucherer boutiques and authorized dealers, for $6,600.

To learn more and inquire for purchase, you can visit the brand’s website, here.

Video Interview: Farer Co-Founder Paul Sweetenham

Video Interview: Farer Co-Founder Paul Sweetenham

We’ve seen some amazing releases from Farer this year, from the GMT Bezel collection to their latest trio of unique Pilot watches. Farer isn’t afraid to push the envelope creatively, and as a result their watches are uniquely their own. We sat down with Co-Founder of Farer, Paul Sweetenham to discuss their process, and how they go about creating such a distinct aesthetic for each of the watches within each of their releases. 

Paul opens up about the history of Farer and how they tie in historical meaning to their collections as brought forth in the form of their stories for each release. If you’re not as familiar with Farer or are just curious to uncover more of their history, this is a must watch straight from the biggest personality behind the brand. Enjoy the video below and learn more about Farer here.

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Circles of Time: Reviewing the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone

Circles of Time: Reviewing the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone

Fifteen years after its introduction, the Lange 1 Time Zone from A. Lange & Söhne has been equipped with a new manufacture caliber. The time in two different time zones can be read intuitively from the dial. But this watch offers much more, as we can confirm after scrutinizing one we were able to preview before the watch’s official launch.

The Lange 1 Time Zone simultaneously shows the time in two different time zones. And its city ring makes it more than merely a wristwatch with a display for a second time zone.

A second time zone ranks among the most useful added functions a watch can have, along with a date, at least since people began traveling around the globe, working and communicating with associates in different time zones. This complication is extremely relevant nowadays, but it’s not as new as you might think. Soon after the International Meridian Conference in 1884, inventive watchmakers in Glashütte had devised and began making pocketwatches with two separately adjustable time displays. These antique timepieces are now coveted collectors’ items.

The new Lange 1 Time Zone, the watch we were able to preview, shows your home time on one circle and another, freely selectable time zone, in a second circle. The entire ensemble is clear, intuitive and, needless to say, designed in classic Lange 1 style. The large, off-center time circle on the left side of the dial shows the time at your current location or in your home time zone. Meanwhile, the time in a different zone is shown on a second, smaller time circle at the lower right, at the same position where the small seconds hand rotates in the classic Lange 1. The small seconds truly deserves its name because this is shown on a petite disk at 6 on the off-center main time subdial. This was the very arrangement that was used on the face of the first Lange 1 Time Zone, which debuted in 2005. Also familiar from the original Lange 1 is the city ring along the dial’s circumference, where two dozen place names correspond to the Earth’s 24 time zones. The positioning of this place-name ring lets you instantly see which zone’s time is currently displayed on the second time circle. The functionality of the Lange 1 Time Zone thus far exceeds that of a watch with a second, separately adjustable time display. Without claiming to be a world-time watch, it can still show all of the world’s time zones. This goal was already explicitly stated in the specs for the original Lange 1 Time Zone, for which the first sketches were available in fall 2002.

In keeping with the model’s predecessors, the Lange 1 Time Zone indicates the main time via golden hands and raised appliqués on a large subdial positioned off center at 9 o’clock.

Two Disks Rotate to Indicate Day and Night
Times change. And some places alter their time zones. Although these zones were theoretically defined according to geographical longitude at the International Meridian Conference in 1884, in practice — then as now — they are far more difficult to define according to shifting political boundaries and national interests. This has practical consequences for watches with settings such as those offered by the Lange 1 Time Zone. Russia, for example, abolished two time zones between 2010 and 2014 and also maintained daylight saving time all year round for over three years starting in 2011. Now the semiannual changeover to daylight saving time is not taking place at all in Russia. To circumvent this confusion, “Moscow” was replaced by “ Riyadh” on the city ring of the Lange 1 Time Zone. Venezuela similarly changed its time zone, so “Caracas” was removed and “Santiago” added to the city ring. And these are only two of the perplexing updates.

The day-night indicators, which are very useful for a watch of this kind, have been completely redesigned on the new Lange 1 Time Zone. They appear as two disks, one at the center of the time circle for the home time and its counterpart at the center of the subdial for the second time zone.
The disks, printed with dark blue semicircular arcs to symbolize night, rotate once around their own axis every 24 hours while the corresponding hour-hands complete two orbits in the same interval. If the hour hands are above the blue arcs, then it is night, or more specifically, the period between 6 p.m. and 6 a.m. If the hour hands are in the light-colored area of the dial, then the time shown refers to a daytime hour between 6 a.m. and 6 p.m. These displays are not only intuitively understandable, but also look very harmonious compared to the formerly off-center positioning of the day/night disks on the old Lange 1 Time Zone.

The names on the city ring correspond to the Earth’s 24 time zones. GMT stands for “Greenwich Mean Time” as originally designated in 1884.

Set the Second Time Zone After Synchronization
The convenient way to set the second time zone was adapted from the previous model. It is done by means of a ring, marked with the corresponding reference locations, that clicks into place in 24 steps and a pusher at 8 o’clock. When you press this pusher, the hour hand of the second time zone advances by one hour. At the same time, the city ring jumps one time zone onward from west to east. A golden arrow appliqué at the 5 in the small time circle indicates the reference point for the respective time zone. All the while, the already-set home time remains unchanged on the large time circle.

Before you choose a second time zone for whatever purpose you may have in mind — for example, to show the time in a business partner’s zone or at an intended destination — it’s recommended to synchronize the watch first. To start this process, press the pusher at the 8 one or more times to move the city ring into the desired position. It aligns with home time at the golden arrowhead. To set the hands, pull the knurled crown to the second position. This is easily accomplished with two fingernails. And the crown snaps smartly into place thanks to a secure detent. Now both pairs of hands move synchronously when you turn the crown — unless you press and hold down the pusher at the 8, thus preventing the hour hand for the second time zone from moving. This allows the two time displays to be synchronized. But be careful: precisely the right amount of pressure must be applied to the pusher. If you press and hold the pusher down too gently, the hour hand for the second time zone will continue to turn; but if you press the button with too much force, the city ring along the dial’s periphery will jump forward and you’ll have to start the procedure all over again. The synchronization works best if you perform the process in the counterclockwise direction. When setting the time, it is also important to make sure that the day-night indicator and the date display are in harmony. If necessary, this can be corrected by pressing the button at the 10. Unlike its counterpart, this pusher is very easy to operate. If you then set the watch to the nearest second (for which a stop-seconds function is provided), then two time zones will run perfectly parallel to one another.

An arrowhead appliqué serves as a link. It refers to the location for which the time can be read. If the window in the arrowhead is red, daylight saving time is in effect in that zone.

To set a business partner’s time zone on the small time circle, simply press the pusher at the 8, which causes the city ring along the dial’s circumference to advance in single-hour increments until the desired reference city is opposite the tip of the golden arrowhead. The hour hand in the small time circle jumps accordingly. When the process is complete, this hand shows the corresponding hour in the desired second time zone.

When Traveling, Press the Button to Preserve Home Time
The same procedure as described above for synchronization is recommended if you want to change the main time during a longer stay in a new time zone. While you reset the new main time on the large time circle via the crown, you press the pusher at the 8 to keep your home time unchanged on the second time circle. The city ring is always linked to the second time zone, while the outsize date display advances in sync with the time shown on the main time circle. If jet lag is keeping you up late and your watch is running, you can observe the date display gradually advance during the first half hour after midnight.

The real artistry of the Lange 1 Time Zone becomes apparent when you switch the home time onto the second time circle and vice versa. Depress and hold down the pusher at the 8 and turn the hands of the main time counterclockwise via the crown until they reach the setting for the current second time zone. Meanwhile the hour hand on the subdial for the second time zone remains motionless. But when performing this operation, make sure that the day/night display is correct. Afterward, press the pusher at the 8 until the city name of your (former) home time appears opposite the arrow appliqué.

The view of a Lange movement is always fascinating. Here, Caliber L141.1 can be seen through a pane of sapphire crystal in the caseback, which is held in place by six screws. The connection for the minute wheel is staged above the three-quarter plate.

The Arrow Appliqué is Handsome and Multifunctional
This watch’s new daylight saving time indicator is also shown using the arrow appliqué. If the small window inside the arrow is filled with red, this means that daylight saving time is in effect at the corresponding location. If this is the case, then you need to mentally add one hour to the time shown by the second time zone display. If standard time is valid all year round at the location, then a white background appears in the little window on the arrow and the display automatically shows the correct time: no mental arithmetic is necessary.

The technical solution that makes this possible involves a coding on the underside of the city ring. This is new, of course, because the first Lange 1 Time Zone didn’t have a daylight saving time indicator. A long lever under the dial moves a red-and-white arc, which shows the daylight saving time coding of the city ring in the small window of the arrow appliqué.

This cadrature belongs to new manual-winding Lange manufacture Caliber L141.1, which means that all models in the Lange 1 watch family are now equipped with new movements rather than the original basic Caliber L901. The experience gained from 65 previous calibers has been incorporated into this latest one. Compared to the previous model, a single barrel provides the Lange 1 Time Zone with its 72-hour power reserve. This is why the German inscription for double barrel that was on the dial of the earlier model has been replaced by the German phrase “Gangreserve 72 Stunden” for 72-hour power reserve. The German words “Auf” (up) and “Ab” (down) that typically appear on Lange’s dials have been preserved unchanged at the 2 and the 4 on the right side of the face. Like the significant big date window at 1 o’clock, the positioning of the hands’ axes also follow Lange’s well-thought-out aesthetics in which nothing is left to chance. The time circles with Roman numerals and golden rhombic appliqués for the main time, and the Arabic numerals printed in black for the second time zone, are also nearly unchanged. Golden leaf-shaped hands are used throughout.

The 24-hour wheels for the new day/night displays are clearly visible, as are the lever and the red-and-white crescent for the innovative daylight saving time indication.

Travel Around the World at Will
To conserve space, the three gears that comprise the drive mechanism for the second time zone were already moved to the back of Caliber L901’s three-quarter plate, where they remain in new Caliber L141.1. Beautiful curved spokes adorn the wheels of the small transmission mechanism from the minute wheel of the main time zone to the minute wheel of the second time zone. Similarly shaped wheels were used on antique lathes. In typical Glashütte style, the large golden intermediate wheel is mounted in a hand-engraved cock with a screwed gold chaton.

Caliber L141.1 is, of course, manufactured in accordance with “the highest Lange quality criteria.” Its technical and aesthetic details include a classic screw balance that vibrates at 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour, a free-swinging balance spring made by Lange, a three-quarter plate crafted from nickel silver, two additional screwed gold chatons, blued screws and a hand-engraved balance cock, on which the swan’s neck fine adjustment for setting the beat is mounted. The beat is perfectly adjusted, although this specimen ran very slightly slow on our timing machine. This fact, however, is excluded from our evaluation because this particular Lange 1 Time Zone is a preview model and not a test piece. That is why we soon had to bid farewell to this beautiful timepiece from Glashütte — and also why we couldn’t keep it long enough to check its rate performance on the wrist over several days.

We would have loved to take this watch along on journeys around the world, but unfortunately we had neither the time nor the opportunity for that adventure. So it’s a good thing that we could circle the globe simply by operating this watch’s time zone function — and do it all without leaving home.

Manufacturer: A. Lange Uhren GmbH, Ferdinand-Adolph-Lange-Platz 1, 01768, Glashütte, Germany
Reference number: 136.032 (Pre-series model for editorial preview)
Functions: Off-center dial for hour and minute with integrated subdial for the seconds, second time zone, ring-shaped day-night displays for both time zones, city ring for second time zone, summer-time display, big date, power-reserve display
Movement: In-house Caliber L141.1, hand- winding, 21,600 vph, 38 rubies, 3 screwed gold chatons, Lange hairspring, screw balance, Kif shock absorption, swan’s neck fine adjustment, 72-hour (3 days) power reserve, diameter = 34.1 mm, height = 6.70 mm
Case: Rose gold, sapphire crystals rated 9 on the Mohs scale above the dial and in the back, water resistant to 30 m
Strap and cla­­sp: Hand-sewn, reddish-brown leather strap, rose-gold pin buckle
Dimensions: Diameter = 41.97 mm, height = 10.94 mm, weight = 114.0 g
Variations: With white-gold case (Ref. 136.029, $52,900); with yellow-gold case (Limited edition of 100 pieces, Ref. 136.021, $56,000)
Price: $52,900

Video Interview: Etienne Malec of Baltic Watches

Video Interview: Etienne Malec of Baltic Watches

Baltic has been serving up some seriously good watches this year at their usual price points, meaning accessible to all. If you’re a W&W regular, you’re undoubtedly familiar with the watches, but what you might be less familiar with is the story behind their designs. We sat down with the brand’s founder, Etienne Malec, to uncover his inspiration. The source may surprise you, and it speaks to the timeless qualities present in each of his watches. 

To close out 2020, Blatic is releasing a new line of GMT watches, the  Aquascaphe GMT. Featuring unique color schemes and classic design cues, these watches manage to find new ground in the well established genre. All the Baltic charm is still there, and of course, they are approachable as ever from a size and price perspective. Enjoy our interview with Etienne below and learn more about Baltic here.

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