The Bravur Geography Gets a Small Update in “Sparkling White”

The Bravur Geography Gets a Small Update in “Sparkling White”

The new Geography’s colorway has been dubbed “Sparkling White,” and I think that’s an apt description. White dials can sometimes feel a little boring, but the black and blue elements, both now a bit more obvious, add contrast and visual interest. More importantly, however, is the structure of the dial itself, with an outer section that has been given a brushed treatment that plays against the stark white of the dial’s interior. Sector dials are all the rage right now, and this yet another riff on that theme, and I think it’s implemented really well. 

The Geography is powered by “caller” GMT movement by Sellita or ETA, depending on availability (the watches are built to order, with delivery currently running into December). This type of GMT movement, with an independently set GMT hand rather than local jumping hours, is useful for keeping track of a second time zone from a stationary point (the opposite is better suited to frequent travelers). Even if you don’t make use of the GMT feature, however, the Geography is still just a really nice looking watch with elegant vintage cues. Bravur

Numbers Up: Audemars Piguet Launches Three Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronographs with Arabic Numerals

Numbers Up: Audemars Piguet Launches Three Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronographs with Arabic Numerals

Audemars Piguet has added a full palette of colors to its most sporty and robust model, the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph, over the last few years. This year, the manufacture introduces a trio of new colorful references, in black ceramic cases, whose “Mega Tapisserie” dials feature a subtle variation from previous versions: new Arabic hour numerals in place of the traditional baton indexes.

Ref. 26405CE.OO.A030CA.01
The dial colors match those of the bezel, crown and pushers.

The 44-mm cases of the three new timepieces are all in brushed black ceramic, with glareproof sapphire crystals in the front and back. For the iconic octagonal Royal Oak bezels, two of the models use colored ceramic, either smoked blue or smoked green; the same material, in the same color, is used for the chronograph push-pieces and the screw-locked crown, with the addition of titanium push-piece guards. The third model has a smoked gray dial and a bezel and push-piece guards made of 18k rose gold, while the push-pieces and the crown are in black ceramic.

Ref. 26405CE.OOA056CA.01

The dials, all enhanced with the waffle-textured pattern that Audemars Piguet calls “Mega Tapisserie” all feature prominent applied Arabic numerals, made of either white gold or rose gold, at eight of the hour positions; rhodium-toned subdials for the small seconds and chronograph totalizers; a round date window at 3 o’clock; and luminous-coated hands in the classical Royal Oak style.

The watches are powered by manufacture Caliber 3126/3840.

Inside the case, which is water-resistant to 100 meters, beats Audemars Piguet’s manufacture Caliber 3126/3840, a self-winding, chronograph-equipped movement with 59 jewels, a 21,600-vph (3 Hz) frequency, and a minimum 50-hour power reserve. Each of the new Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronographs comes on color-coordinated, textured rubber strap with pin buckles in either titanium or rose gold. Prices are $34,900 for the smoked blue and smoked green ceramic-bezel models, and $42,900 for the smoked gray, rose-gold-bezel model.

Ref. 26405NR.OO.A002CA.01
Rose gold guards protect black ceramic chrono pushers.

For more models in the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph series, click here.

Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet, Le Brassus, Switzerland
Reference number: 26405NR.OO.A002CA.01, 26405CE.OOA056CA.01, 26405CE.OO.A030CA.01
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph
Movement: Audemars Piguet Caliber 3126/3840, automatic, 21,600 vph (3 Hz), minimum 50-hour power reserve, 59 jewels
Case: Black ceramic case with screw-locked crown, colored ceramic or rose gold bezel, rose gold or titanium push-piece guards, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, water resistant to 100 meters
Bracelet and cla­­sp: Textured rubber strap with pin buckle in titanium or rose gold
Dimensions: Diameter = 44 mm, height = 14.55 mm
Price: $34,900 (ceramic), $42,900 (ceramic/rose gold)
Two New Watches From Yema: an All Purpose Tool Watch Inspired by Aviation, and a Superman Diver a Fun Dial Design

Two New Watches From Yema: an All Purpose Tool Watch Inspired by Aviation, and a Superman Diver a Fun Dial Design

If water is more your speed than air, the new Superman 63 might be the more appealing of these new Yema releases. Based on the Superman line of divers, this new variant includes the locking bezel that watch lovers have come to closely associate with the brand’s dive watches, but with dial elements that have been altered to pay tribute to the very first Superman, made in – you guessed it – 1963. The very obvious and notable change here is the use of highly stylized Arabic numerals at 6:00, 9:00, and 12:00. The playful typeface reminds me of the original Oris Divers 65, another popular vintage throwback diver. Now Yema has put their own unique twist on the concept of a fun diver that recalls the early days of recreational diving.

The two watches are comparable specced. The Flygrafs use Yema’s MBP1000 movement, while the Superman is powered by a Sellita SW200, and the diver, like the pilot’s watch, is water resistant to 300 meters. Unlike the pilot’s watch, however, the Superman 63 is available in two case sizes: 41 and 39mm. These new watches are scheduled to be released on July 6, with the Flygraf Pilot retailing for $690, and the Superman 63 starting at $1049. Yema

Back to the Reef with the Oris Carysfort Reef Limited Edition

Back to the Reef with the Oris Carysfort Reef Limited Edition

Swiss watchmaker Oris in recent years has become almost as well known for its charitable partnerships as for for its dive watches, and today the brand returns to both themes with the new Carysfort Reef Limited Edition, a new, special variation on the Aquis GMT Date model.

Oris Carysfort Reef Limited Edition

The limited-edition watch is being produced in partnership with the non-profit Coral Restoration Foundation, the world’s largest coral reef restoration organization, which often pays particular attention to healing reefs alongside its headquarters’ Florida coast — such as the Carysfort Reef for which the latest Oris watch is named. This new model is the third watch produced by the Hölstein brand in partnership with the Coral Restoration Foundation, the first being the Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition III —  a version of the Aquis Diver unveiled in 2019 – and the second the Carysfort Reef Gold Limited Edition, an all-gold version of the Aquis GMT Date released earlier this year.

Taking a closer look at the new limited edition, we find the familiar silhouette of previous Aquis GMT Date models, here distinguished through its orange accents and caseback engraving. The model uses a 43.5-mm multi-piece constructed steel case with large, faceted lugs, angular crown guards, and a thick, signed screw-down crown on its side. On top of the case is a prominent two-tone unidirectional bezel that adds a millimeter or so to the overall case dimensions: its blue and black color sections indicate day and night and it’s accented with a white, 24-hour scale with an orange triangle at 12 o’clock to assist in timekeeping in three time zones. 

The orange details contrast with the gradient blue dial.

For the dial, Oris has again opted to use the distinct, blue gradient color that it seems to have reserved for the Aquis limited editions, contrasting with the darker gradient blue used on regular editions within the collection. On the outer edge, we see a simple white outer minute ring, accented at each hour with a large applied, lume-filled marker. Inside this ring is another one for the GMT mechanism, which keeps track of an additional time zone with an orange accented, triangle-tipped pointer. Finally, at the center of the dial are two large hands for the primary hour and minutes along with an elongated, lollipop-tipped hand to indicate the running seconds.

The solid caseback features a special engraving.

Powering the new model is the Oris 798 caliber, which is the same caliber used in the standard-issue Aquis Date GMT. This Oris-finished automatic movement uses the Sellita SW 330-1 as its base and stores a 42-hour power reserve. This movement is protected behind a solid, commemorative caseback engraved with imagery of the Carysfort Reef alongside some of the watch’s descriptors and its limited edition number (out of 2,000). The solid caseback helps the model maintain a professional-grade 300-meter water resistance. 

The watch is limited to 2,000 pieces.

The Oris Carysfort Reef Limited Edition is secured to the wrist with either a steel triple-link-style bracelet or an orange rubber strap that matches the orange accents seen on the dial and bezel. The model will be limited to 2,000 total editions, and will retail for CHF 2,850 (about $3,018) on the metal bracelet and CHF 2,650 ($2,807) on the colorful strap. The watch is available now, directly through Oris, with shipping expected to begin in July.

The GMT hand and 24-hour bezel enable the reading of time in two additional time zones.

To learn more about the watch and to inquire for purchase, you can visit Oris’ website, here. To learn more about the Coral Restoration Foundation, you can visit their page, here.

Carysfort Reef
EBAY FINDS JULY, 2020: A Triple Date, a Bullhead, a Hi-Beat, and more

EBAY FINDS JULY, 2020: A Triple Date, a Bullhead, a Hi-Beat, and more

1938 Bulova Corrigan

The Bulova Corrigan is one of the all-time great Art Deco watch designs. The “Mayan Temple” stepped case is unparalleled, and is an example of Machine Age aesthetic design at its peak. Now, it’s a tiny one at just over 25mm wide with 14mm lugs, so keep that in mind. That said, the look and vibe of this model are gigantic in my opinion. Seller states it is serviced, which is nice. The case exhibits typical wear from a nearly 100-year-old watch, but overall the condition is fantastic. Seller states the dial is original, but I suspect it’s likely a well-done redial. But to be honest, that is very common for a watch this old and shouldn’t deter you from bidding.

Available here